Corkscrew-curled cavy with a full-time coat · Advanced
TG
Lifespan
5-7 years
Adult size
20-30cm
Min. habitat
Indoor cage 1m²+ for a pair, on fleece liners
Social needs
Highly social, keep 2 or more
Diet
Herbivore: unlimited hay + vitamin C
Time
High; daily grooming plus standard care
Cost
Medium-High
Overview
The Texel is the curly long-haired guinea pig, its whole body wrapped in soft corkscrew ringlets that can grow to 10-15 centimetres or more if left unclipped.
It was developed in England in the 1980s by crossing the long-coated Silkie, also called the Sheltie, with the curly-coated Rex, and gained full breed recognition in 1998.
Unlike the Peruvian, the hair on a Texel's face stays short, so the curls frame the head rather than sweep over it.
That coat makes the Texel widely regarded as the highest-maintenance guinea pig breed, because ringlets tangle and mat faster than any straight show coat.
Underneath it is a normal, intensely social cavy that must live with at least one other guinea pig.
If you have never kept cavies before, start with a smooth-coated breed and come back to the Texel later; not yet is the honest answer here.
Housing
House at least two together in a solid-floored indoor enclosure of 1 square metre or more for a pair, such as a 2x4 C&C cage, with more space always better.
Fleece liners are effectively mandatory for this breed, because loose shavings and stray hay embed into the ringlets within hours.
Provide a hide for each pig and mount hay low in racks positioned so the coat trails through it as little as possible.
Keep them indoors at 18-23C, away from drafts, damp, and direct sun, as heat above 26C is dangerous for any cavy.
Spot-clean daily, because a wet or soiled floor becomes a wet, soiled coat and then infected skin underneath it.
Ground-level floor space matters more than height, plus daily supervised floor time to exercise.
Diet
Unlimited grass hay is the foundation of the diet, wearing down continuously growing teeth and keeping the gut moving.
Add roughly an eighth of a cup of plain, vitamin-C-fortified pellets per pig and about a cup of mixed fresh vegetables daily.
Like all guinea pigs, Texels cannot make their own vitamin C and need 10-30 milligrams a day, or they develop scurvy; bell pepper and leafy greens are the most reliable fresh sources, topped up by fortified pellets.
Skip vitamin drops added to water, which degrade within hours, taint the taste, and can put pigs off drinking altogether.
Offer water from a bottle rather than an open bowl, which soaks the chin and chest curls and leaves them permanently damp.
Avoid sudden diet changes, which can upset the sensitive cavy gut.
Health
The coat is the main clinical risk, and it is worse than in any straight-coated breed: ringlets mat close to the skin, trap urine, droppings, and moisture, hide mites, and invite flystrike.
Never brush the curls, which frizzes and breaks them; separate tangles gently with your fingers or a wide-toothed comb instead.
Most pet keepers sensibly keep the whole coat trimmed short, and the rear end needs checking and cleaning every day.
Texels are one of the few guinea pig breeds that genuinely need an occasional bath, but the curls hold water, so towel and dry thoroughly afterwards to prevent chilling and fungal skin problems.
The grease gland above where a tail would be turns waxy, especially in boars, and mats the surrounding ringlets, so check and clean it regularly.
Otherwise the breed shares the standard cavy problems: scurvy, dental malocclusion, respiratory infections, bladder stones, ovarian cysts, and bumblefoot.
Any guinea pig that stops eating is a medical emergency, as gut stasis kills quickly.
Weigh weekly and keep an exotics-savvy vet on hand.
Temperament
Texels have a reputation as one of the calmest, most laid-back cavy breeds, which is fortunate given how much handling their coat demands.
They are still guinea pigs at heart: timid by nature, vocal, wheeking at feeding time, and happiest with routine and the company of their own kind.
Start coat handling in the first weeks and keep sessions short, calm, and rewarded, so daily grooming becomes a bonding ritual rather than a struggle.
Individuals vary, and a Texel that dreads grooming makes the breed's workload far heavier.
A good fit for
Experienced cavy keepers ready for the most demanding coat
Households able to set aside grooming time every single day
Keepers housing a bonded pair or more indoors
People who enjoy calm, hands-on grooming as bonding
Common mistakes to avoid
Choosing a Texel as a first guinea pig for the looks
Brushing the curls instead of finger-detangling them
Loose shavings and open water bowls wrecking the coat
Mats and moisture building unseen close to the skin
Weigh weekly. It is the highest-value two minutes in guinea pig keeping, and it is the only way to see trouble coming.
Go now
Not eating, or not producing droppingsCall now. The gut stops when food stops moving. Same mechanism as a rabbit, same urgency.
8 hours
Crusty eyes, laboured or clicking breathingGo now. Respiratory infection moves fast in cavies and is a leading cause of death.
Now
Today
Weight down 50 g or more in a week, or falling three weeks runningCall an exotics vet with the weight log. A guinea pig can lose a significant share of its body weight before an owner sees any change through the coat.
Today
Dropping food, drooling, or a wet chinBook a dental examination. Back teeth grow continuously and can bridge over the tongue. The animal keeps trying to eat and cannot.
Today
Soon
Sitting apart from the others, or stopped talkingWeigh, then watch closely. A social species going quiet is often the first behavioural sign.
A day or two
A guinea pig must not live alone. Switzerland treats keeping a single guinea pig as a welfare offence, and the practical consequence there is a rent-a-companion service for a bereaved survivor.
This is general guidance for a healthy adult, not a diagnosis. An exotics vet who knows your animal always overrides it — and the time to find one is before you need one.
Can a texel guinea pig eat that?
Guinea pigs cannot make their own vitamin C, so a daily source is not enrichment — it is the difference between health and scurvy.
Never (20)
AlcoholNo safe amount at any body weight on this site.
never
AvocadoPersin, concentrated in the skin, stone and leaves. Implicated in cardiac damage across birds, rodents and reptiles.
never
Bread and baked goodsRefined starch ferments in the hindgut and causes gas and stasis. No nutritional case for it either.
never
CaffeineCoffee, tea and energy drinks. Cardiac and neurological toxicity at tiny doses for an animal this size.
never
ChocolateTheobromine and caffeine. Small mammals and reptiles cannot clear either.
never
DairyAdults are lactose intolerant and the gut flora cannot handle it.
never
Dried fruitSugar concentrated several times over, and it sticks to the teeth. Most commercial small-pet treats are exactly this.
never
GarlicSame allium toxicity as onion, and more concentrated by weight.
never
Iceberg lettuceAlmost entirely water with negligible nutrition, and it contains lactucarium, which causes diarrhoea in quantity. It displaces food that would have been useful.
never
LeekAllium family. Same mechanism as onion and garlic.
never
MeatA hindgut fermenter has no way to process animal protein. It disrupts the gut flora the animal depends on.
never
MushroomsNot part of any of these animals' natural diet, and the risk from misidentified varieties is not worth the zero upside.
never
NutsFat and phosphorus loads a herbivore is not built for, and a choking risk.
never
OnionOrganosulphur compounds damage red blood cells. The whole allium family is out.
never
PotatoSolanine in the skin and any green part, plus a starch load the hindgut cannot handle.
never
Raw beansLectins. Also a gas producer in a species that cannot vomit or belch.
never
RhubarbVery high in soluble oxalate, high enough to cause acute kidney injury. The leaves are worse than the stalks.
never
Salty or seasoned human foodSalt, oil and seasoning. Crisps, chips, seasoned leftovers and processed meat are all out.
never
SweetcornThe hulls are indigestible and are a recognised blockage risk in small herbivores.
never
Vitamin C drops in waterDegrades within hours, makes the water taste odd so the pig drinks less, and gives no reliable dose. Feed the vitamin, do not dissolve it.
never
Rare treats (13)
AppleSugar. The seeds contain a cyanogenic compound and must be removed. A thin slice, once or twice a week. Never the seeds or core.
rare treat
BananaVery high in sugar and starch, and most animals will overeat it given the chance. A slice the width of a fingernail, rarely.
rare treat
BlueberrySugar, but a small portion size makes it easy to control. One or two berries, twice a week.
rare treat
Brussels sproutsHighly gas-forming. Half a sprout, rarely.
rare treat
CarrotSold as the archetypal rabbit food and it is nothing of the kind: carrot is a root vegetable with a high sugar content. The leafy tops, by contrast, are an excellent green. A thin slice as a treat. The tops can be fed freely.
rare treat
CauliflowerOne of the most gas-forming brassicas. A very small piece, occasionally.
rare treat
GrapesVery high in sugar. Halve them, because a whole grape is a choking hazard. One halved grape, rarely.
rare treat
OrangeAcidic and sugary; can irritate the mouth and gut. A tiny segment, rarely if at all.
rare treat
PearSugar. Remove the seeds. A thin slice occasionally.
rare treat
PeasHigh in starch and sugar. The pods and leaves are better than the peas. A few pods occasionally.
rare treat
StrawberrySugar, though lower than most fruit. The leaves are actually the better part. Half a small berry, once or twice a week.
rare treat
TomatoThe ripe flesh is safe in small amounts. The leaves, stems and any green fruit contain solanine and must never be offered. A small piece of ripe flesh, occasionally. Never the plant.
rare treat
WatermelonSugar and a very high water content, which together can loosen the gut. Remove the seeds. A small cube in hot weather, rarely.
rare treat
Occasional (18)
BasilSafe and well liked. Rotate rather than relying on it. A few leaves.
occasional
Bok choyGood green, mildly goitrogenic like other brassicas. A leaf or two a few times a week.
occasional
BroccoliNutritious but a notable gas producer. Leaves and stalk are better tolerated than the florets. A small floret or a piece of stalk, twice a week.
occasional
CabbageA brassica. Gas-forming in quantity, and goitrogenic with heavy long-term feeding. A small piece, once or twice a week.
occasional
CelerySafe and well liked. Cut across the stalk so the long fibres cannot catch. A short piece, cut into segments.
occasional
ChardSame oxalate issue as spinach. A small leaf, occasionally.
occasional
CourgetteSafe and mild. Serve raw. A few slices a few times a week.
occasional
CucumberSafe, but it is mostly water with very little in it. Useful for hydration in warm weather, poor as a staple. A few slices.
occasional
DillSafe in rotation. A few fronds.
occasional
Green beansSafe cooked or raw in small amounts. Gas-forming in quantity. One or two, occasionally.
occasional
KaleHigh vitamin C, high calcium. Good in rotation, a stone risk as a daily staple. A leaf or two, twice a week.
occasional
MintSafe in small amounts; strongly flavoured and not every animal wants it. A leaf or two.
occasional
ParsleyVery high in vitamin C, and also high in calcium. Rotate it rather than feeding it daily. A few sprigs a few times a week.
occasional
PelletsA plain vitamin-C-fortified guinea pig pellet. Vitamin C degrades in the bag, so buy small and check the date rather than relying on it as the only source. About a tablespoon per pig per day.
occasional
PumpkinSafe and well tolerated in small amounts. A small cube occasionally.
occasional
RocketPeppery and well tolerated in rotation. A small handful, a few times a week.
occasional
SpinachHigh in oxalates, which bind calcium and contribute to bladder sludge and stones in animals prone to them. A single small leaf, no more than once or twice a week.
occasional
WatercressNutritious, strongly flavoured, high in calcium. A small handful occasionally.
occasional
Everyday foods (6)
Bell pepperThe single best everyday vitamin C source on this list, and low in sugar and oxalate with it. Red has the most; green is still good. A quarter of a pepper per pig, daily.
everyday food
Carrot topsThe leaves are a proper green and much better food than the root. A handful as part of the daily greens.
everyday food
CorianderWell liked, good vitamin C, no oxalate problem. A generous handful daily as part of the mix.
everyday food
Dandelion leavesOne of the best greens available, and free. Pick well away from roadsides and anywhere that may have been sprayed. A generous handful daily.
everyday food
Grass hayShould be about 80 percent of what this animal eats, available at all times. It is what wears the teeth down and what keeps the gut moving. Unlimited, always.
everyday food
Romaine lettuceDark leafy lettuce with real nutritional content and a good water balance. A generous handful daily as part of a mixed selection.
everyday food
That food is not on our list. Leave it out and check with an exotics vet — guinea pigs are conservative eaters and a food they have never had can be refused for weeks afterwards.
Guinea pigs imprint on what they ate as youngsters and can refuse anything unfamiliar for life. Offer variety early and keep offering it.
Setup, monthly, first year and across a whole life, itemised and with the electricity worked out from the actual wattage. Published figures for the same animal disagree by a factor of four, so the calculator shows ranges rather than picking one.
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