Lawnmower Blenny

Denis Cheong (Zylantha) · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons (cropped)

Saltwater Fish · Blennies

Lawnmower Blenny

Salarias fasciatus

Comical algae grazer with plenty of personalityBeginner

Lifespan
4-6 years
Size
4-5 in
Social needs
One per tank unless the system is large
Time
Low
Cost
High
Diet
Herbivore, marine algae

Overview

What is this animal?

  • The Lawnmower Blenny is a hardy, characterful herbivore named for its habit of grazing algae off rock and glass.
  • With perching pectoral fins, expressive eyes, and constant activity, it is a popular beginner reef fish.
  • It is reef-safe and useful for nuisance algae, but it needs an established tank with a real algae supply.
  • Keepers must be ready to supplement food once the algae is grazed down.

Temperament

  • Peaceful toward most tankmates but territorial toward other blennies and similar bottom-dwelling fish.
  • Keep only one lawnmower blenny per tank unless the system is large, to avoid squabbling.
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  • It is an amusing, interactive fish that perches openly, hops between rocks, and shifts colour with mood.
  • It generally ignores corals and invertebrates, making it a reliable, peaceful reef community member.

A good fit for

  • Beginners wanting a hardy, fun fish
  • Reef tanks with nuisance algae
  • Keepers who will supplement with nori
  • Community reefs needing a peaceful grazer

Common mistakes to avoid

  • Starves in tanks lacking enough algae
  • Watch for a pinched, concave belly
  • Keeping two blennies together causes fights
  • Adding to a brand-new, algae-free tank

Enclosure

Minimum 79 gallons

One of its kind per tank; other compatible species can share it. One per tank unless the system is large

  • House in a mature reef of at least 80 gallons with plenty of live rock covered in algae film and perches to rest on.
  • Retail guides often quote 30 gallons, but starvation is this fish's commonest cause of death, and a tank that small has little algae-growing rock to feed it.
  • An established tank with diatom and green algae growth provides natural grazing.
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  • Keep temperature 75-81°F, salinity 1.024-1.026, pH 8.1-8.4, and ammonia and nitrite at zero.
  • A tank that is too clean or too new will leave this grazer underfed.

Check your enclosure

Supplies

Setup

  • Tank, stand and sump, about 80-90 US gallons
  • Return pump and powerheads
  • Protein skimmer
  • Reef lighting
  • Rock and sand
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  • Salt mix, refractometer and test kits
  • Quarantine tank

Ongoing

  • Dried marine algae (nori) sheets
  • Magnetic or suction veg clip
  • Spirulina flake and algae pellets
  • Frozen mysis shrimp
  • Frozen enriched brine shrimp
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  • Marine flake or small pellet
  • Small thawing cup and strainer

Safe substrate: Aragonite sand · Dry or cured live rock

Work out the cost

Care routine

Daily

  • Check salinity, temperature and flow
  • Feed
  • Head-count and look everyone over
  • Top up evaporation with fresh water

Every few days

  • Offer nori on a clipevery 2 days
  • Service the skimmer and filter socksevery 3 days
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Weekly

  • Check the belly profile
  • Clean the glass
  • Test the water
  • Water change

Monthly

  • Calibrate the refractometer
  • Check salt, RO/DI and reagents

Less often

  • Deep-clean pumps and powerheadsevery 3 months
  • Replace RO/DI filter mediaevery 6 months

Health review: Quarterly belly-profile review, every 3 months

Tools

Care in depth

Diet

Herbivore, marine algae
  • Primarily a herbivore, it grazes hair algae, diatoms, and film algae from rock and glass.
  • Once natural algae is depleted, supplement with dried nori, seaweed sheets, spirulina flakes, and algae-based pellets.
  • Many lawnmower blennies slowly starve in tanks without enough algae, so a sunken belly signals the need to feed more vegetable matter.
  • Some will eventually accept meaty frozen foods as well.

Health

Signs of good health, and the common problems
  • Hardy and relatively disease-resistant compared with many marine fish, but it still benefits from quarantine and stable water.
  • The most common cause of death is starvation in tanks with insufficient algae rather than illness.
  • Watch the belly profile: a pinched, concave stomach means it is not getting enough food.
  • Provide constant grazing material and supplemental nori to keep weight and energy up.

Is this urgent?

6 warning signs and how fast to act, 3 of them right away

In a reef, stability matters more than any single target number. A parameter moving fast does more damage than a parameter sitting slightly off.

Go now

Any detectable ammonia or nitriteWater change now with matched, mixed and aerated saltwater. Stop feeding. Ammonia is directly toxic, and at reef pH more of it is in the toxic form, so a marine system has less margin than a freshwater one. Nitrite is far less toxic in seawater, but any reading in a stocked tank means the biological filter is not keeping up.
Now
Temperature or salinity has moved sharplyCorrect slowly, over hours, not minutes. Check the heater and the top-off. The speed of the change does the damage. Correcting fast repeats the injury in the other direction.
Now
Rapid gilling, or a fish hanging in the flow breathing hardIncrease aeration and check temperature and salinity. Warm water holds less oxygen, and a heater failure shows up here first.
Now

Today

White spots, or a fine dusting like icing sugarIdentify which parasite before treating. Most reef tanks cannot be treated in place. The two common parasites look similar and need different handling; velvet can kill a tank in days.
Today
Corals closed for more than a day, or receding tissueTest alkalinity first, and compare it against the last reading rather than a target. Unstable alkalinity is the most commonly cited coral killer, and a swing shows up in the trend, never in a single point.
Today
A new fish added without quarantine now looks unwellRemove it to a separate system today if you can. Nearly every wipeout in a reef tank traces back to a skipped quarantine.
Today

Quarantine every new animal, including corals and inverts. It is the single practice that separates a reef that lasts from a reef that restarts.

This is general guidance for a healthy adult, not a diagnosis. An exotics vet who knows your animal always overrides it, and the time to find one is before you need one.

Bedding and substrate

2 safe, 3 with a caveat, 2 to avoid

In a marine system the rock and the sand are life support, and how you start them decides the first six months.

Safe

Aragonite sandThe standard marine substrate, and it hosts the biology. It does not meaningfully hold pH or alkalinity at normal reef pH, so test and dose for those regardless.
safe
Dry or cured live rockDry rock avoids importing pests but takes longer to mature. Cured rock is faster and riskier.
safe

With a caveat

Deep sand bedsPowerful nutrient processing when they work and a sulphide release when they are disturbed. Choose shallow or deep deliberately, not by accident. A sand-sifting or burrowing goby needs a fine bed about 2 to 3 in deep that it turns over itself. That is a different thing from a denitrifying deep sand bed (4 in or more, left undisturbed), and the two do not mix: a sifting goby disturbs the layers a deep sand bed depends on and eats the life in it.
with a caveat
Uncured live rockIt will cycle the tank for you, and it will also bring in whatever was living in it.
with a caveat
Bare bottomWorkable in high-flow systems for fish that neither sift nor burrow, but it removes a large part of the biological buffer. Wrong for watchman gobies and other gobies that burrow or sift, which need a fine sand bed at least 2 in deep to dig and feed in, and for mandarins and other copepod-eaters, which need sand as well as mature rock for their food to breed in.
with a caveat

Never

Silica play sandNot the marine standard, and commonly blamed for feeding diatom blooms in a new tank.
never
Any rock or decor of unknown originMetals and phosphate leach for months and are almost impossible to trace once the tank is running.
never

This is our general list for saltwater fish. We have not built one specific to Blennies yet.

Top resources for more info

Independent creators and organisations we would send a friend to. We have no affiliation with any of them, and nothing here is sponsored. Links checked 2026-10-22.

YouTubers

Sites

Keep going

Blennies, side by side

Same axes, same care guides: the honest way to choose between types.

More Saltwater Fish guides

Is your enclosure big enough?

These are the smallest sizes that give good conditions, not legal minimums. More room is always better.

Minimum 79 gallons

Every figure, and where it comes from

Starvation is this fish's commonest cause of death, and the algae growing on the rock is what feeds it, so the tank must be mature as well as large. Aquariadise and Aquarium Source give 55 US gal for one fish. Austria's law asks at least 79 gal for tropical blennies, and this site sets its figure there, because good conditions are never less than a law requires.

Minimum volume79 gallons
CompanyOne of its kind per tank; other compatible species can share it. One per tank unless the system is large
The recognised standards do not agree on this one
Austria, 2. Tierhaltungsverordnung, Anlage 5 (legal minimum): At least 79 gal of water for tropical blennies, kept as a pair or a group of five or more. A legal minimum. The volume this site uses is set to match it. Checked 2026-10-23.
Aquariadise (lawnmower blenny care guide): At least 55 US gal, mature, with plenty of algae growing. Below the volume used here. Checked 2026-10-23.
Aquarium Source (lawnmower blenny care guide): 55 US gal for one; 100 US gal for a pair. Below the volume used here for one fish. Checked 2026-10-23.
Practical Fishkeeping (common clownfish care guide; characterful blennies for the reef tank): A tank 36 in long or larger; 48 x 18 x 18 in for the jewel blenny, a close relative of the same size. Recorded for context. Checked 2026-10-23.
LiveAquaria (retailer care card for the algae blenny): 30 US gal. A pet-trade minimum, below the volume used here. Checked 2026-10-23.

What it really costs

Setup, monthly, first year and across a whole life, itemised and with the electricity worked out from the actual wattage. Published figures for the same animal disagree by a factor of four, so the calculator shows ranges rather than picking one.

My kit says 0.25 ppm. Is that dangerous?

A liquid kit measures total ammonia, but only the un-ionised fraction is really toxic, and that fraction is governed by pH and temperature. Each whole pH unit multiplies it roughly tenfold. So the same reading can be nearly harmless in one tank and lethal in another; this works out which one you are in.