
Harlequin Rasbora
Trigonostigma heteromorpha
Copper shoaler with a black triangular patchBeginner
- Lifespan
- 5-8 years
- Size
- 1.5-2 in4-5 cm
- Social needs
- Shoaler; keep 12+ together
- Time
- Low; daily feeding, weekly water change
- Cost
- Low
- Diet
- Omnivore; micro pellets, flakes, frozen foods
Overview
What is this animal?
- The harlequin rasbora is a peaceful shoaling fish from the soft, acidic forest streams and peat swamps of Southeast Asia.
- Its warm copper-pink body and black triangular patch make a dense shoal an attractive sight in a planted community tank.
- Hardy, long-lived and captive-bred, it is a good beginner fish that adapts well once a tank is cycled.
- It rewards patience with years of reliable colour and calm behaviour in the right soft-water setup.
Temperament
- Peaceful, social and tightly shoaling when kept in good numbers, harlequins glide calmly through midwater and rarely trouble their tankmates.
- A larger group settles faster, colours up and swims more openly.
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- They are good community fish alongside other gentle soft-water species such as small tetras, corydoras, dwarf cichlids and shrimp.
- Avoid large, boisterous or predatory tankmates that intimidate the shoal or keep these mild fish hiding among the plants.
A good fit for
- Beginners wanting a peaceful, long-lived shoal
- Planted soft-water community aquariums
- Keepers seeking calm, reliable colour
- Shrimp-friendly and biotope-style tanks
Common mistakes to avoid
- Keeping too few, causing chronic stress
- Hard, alkaline water dulling their colour
- Adding them to an immature, uncycled tank
- Housing with large or aggressive tankmates
Enclosure
Minimum 16 gallons60 litres, for a group of 12
Cannot be kept alone. The minimum is 12, and the space above is for that group.
- Keep a shoal of twelve or more in a tank at least 24 in60 cm long holding 16 US gallons60 litres or more, filtered and heated to 73-81°F23-27°C.
- They look best against dark substrate in a planted, dimly lit tank with driftwood and light tannin staining that echoes their native swamps.
- They prefer soft, slightly acidic water but adapt to moderately hard supplies if kept stable.
- Provide gentle flow, open midwater swimming space and planted cover so the shoal feels secure enough to display full colour.
Supplies
Setup
- Tank and stand
- Filter
- Heater and thermometer
- Substrate, plants and decor
- Liquid test kit
- Dechlorinator and starter supplies
Ongoing
- Quality micro-pellet or fine flake
- Frozen daphnia and cyclops
- Frozen or live baby brine shrimp
- Frozen bloodworm (to be chopped fine)
- Small scissors or blade for chopping frozen food
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- Fine net for removing leftovers
- Small feeding spoon
Safe substrate: Fine, smooth sand · Smooth, rounded fine gravel (not for loaches or sand-sifting cichlids; sand is better for corydoras) · Bare bottom (quarantine and grow-out only)
Care routine
Daily
- Check temperature and equipment
- Feed a fine-grained food
- Head-count and look everyone over
Every few days
- Top up evaporationevery 3 days
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Weekly
- Count the school
- Test the water
- Water change and gravel vacuum
- Wipe the front glass only
Every few weeks
- Trim and thin the plantsevery 2 weeks
Monthly
- Check supplies and reagent dates
- Replace or recharge chemical media, if you use any (skip it in a blackwater tank)
- Rinse the filter media
Health review: Quarterly review with a new-stock check, every 3 months
Tools
Care in depth
Diet
Omnivore; micro pellets, flakes, frozen foods
- Harlequins are easy omnivores with small mouths.
- A quality micro-pellet or flake forms a dependable staple, rotated with frozen or live daphnia, baby brine shrimp, cyclops and finely chopped bloodworm for variety and condition.
- Feed small amounts once or twice daily, only what is consumed within a minute or two.
- Varied feeding supports their colour and the general health that helps them reach their long lifespan.
Health
Signs of good health, and the common problems
- Harlequins are robust and disease-resistant, with most problems traceable to chilling, poor water quality or stress rather than weak stock.
- Ich and fin rot are the usual concerns and respond quickly to corrected conditions and prompt treatment.
- Stable warmth, soft water and weekly partial changes prevent the majority of issues.
- Quarantine new arrivals, acclimatise gently, and keep them in a settled, well-cycled tank, where they prove trouble-free over many years.
Is this urgent?
6 warning signs and how fast to act, 3 of them right away
In a fish tank the patient is usually the water. Test before you treat: dosing a healthy tank for a disease it does not have makes things worse.
Go now
Today
Soon
Never add a new fish to a tank that is not fully cycled, and never treat blind. A test kit is cheaper than the fish.
This is general guidance for a healthy adult, not a diagnosis. An exotics vet who knows your animal always overrides it, and the time to find one is before you need one.
Bedding and substrate
3 safe, 4 with a caveat, 2 to avoid
Substrate in an aquarium is a filter as much as a floor. Most of the biology lives in and on it.
Safe
With a caveat
Never
This is our general list for freshwater fish. We have not built one specific to Rasboras yet.
Top resources for more info
Independent creators and organisations we would send a friend to. We have no affiliation with any of them, and nothing here is sponsored. Links checked 2026-10-22.
YouTubers
Sites
Rasboras, side by side
Same axes, same care guides: the honest way to choose between types.





